"Only God Knows Why" censored version Kid Rock, the why nots are growing
from Plaza de Mulas in tent 10 PM
Last night was terrible when the sun sets it drops in the 20 quickly only heat is inside of your sleeping bag. I got cold with two light weight tops I had a lot of work to get done before i could get in my bag. when i finished i was getting hypothermia and got in my bag before midnight with all of my clothes on and fell to sleep quickly Roy came back to the tent and I was out. I woke at 130 am sweating and had to undress and hang all of my clothes to dry out at 20 degrees I will have to wait till sun hits our tent. I fell back to sleep at 2 AM and from 2 til 6 wasn't able to sleep over 15 min at a time every time, I dropped to REM sleep I would wake short of breath struggling for air.
Max and doc said apnea part of clitmatazation at our briefing he ask gave us a tentative schedule and importance of being on time at summit day if you delay and people are outside for 15m waiting they could be in danger of loosing toes. That being said and the fact I couldn't sleep I was up 4 hours before departure time feeling like crap.
Our day was the first carry to high camp 1, camp Canada 5050 meters 16,900 ft, this is where we start our summit attempt and things get harder. we have only dehydrated food from this camp up. We wait until 10:30 for the 7 hour round trip to camp 1 and back we have heavy bags much of our summit gear, food, and bedding fairly steep but not too far. They talk more in altitude to describe the effort and this was a 700 meter climb to and from. The group starts and I am fiddling with my music and forget my poles have to sprint maybe a 100 yards get them and catch back up. I caught the group as they start a steep section with my heart rate still screaming it takes a long time at the back to recover starting a long day of bad. Half way up we are his with a snow storm and have too speed up once we get to camp. Guides George and Edward have to set up a tent for us to drop our gear we eat and start down lightly loaded. Our decent starts with a hard cold snowy wind luckily I brought my goggles and helped. I learned a rapid decent technique in Africa skiing on screet you look for loose piles of these big rocks and bail into them like a ball pit at Chucky Cheeses. The only problem is when you hit something solid it hurts which I did half way down. The alternative is to walk the zig zag path we climbed up causing me more blisters and knee and back get pounded. I thought I cut it but nothing to bad. When I get close to the bottom I feel my pants getting tight and know something wasn't right. Luckily we are back to Plaza de Mulas where the doc looked at my already badly swollen knee and said it would need to be drained wouldn't do it on the mountain because of risk of infection. I had no pain and good mobility but could feel it getting stiffer. She gives me a shot of diclofenac and dexamedicin wraps it in a compression bandage and said should slow or stop the swelling. I need to keep it elevated. Luckily again we have a rest day and group walks to a glacier and back so I can repack and take it easy I still think I can climb. Doc comes by to check on me but I am already in my tent we have a physical tomorrow before the push. I hope things go better.
It is a snowy night I keep kicking the snow off the roof on our ten. Roy comes in and brings my thermos, water bottles filled with boiling water which go in my sleeping bag with my bag of electronics and 1.5 liter pee bottle all of which important tricks to sleeping in the cold. I think of Lisa wishing she could see some of the beautiful things but she would not like this.
The last off day meant a lot of repacking laundry and tried to send news with marginal email if storm stays till tomorrow I may not get this out unless I am pulled and told I cant continue then I will have plenty of time.
We will have some amazing footage from the Brazilian camera man.
Why Only god knows
Why not sleeping with pee bottles
may be a long mule ride out.
My tent Plaza de Mulas waiting storm out
The red tent is our interned the yellow one in front is my tent
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